'Chosen by your leader'

We've just spent a few days in and around Kyoto, the former capital of Japan. As you would expect from a region that is considered to be the cradle of Japanese civilisation, there are a lot of places of historical significance here, principally Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. And we've managed to see a lot of them.

After arriving on the Bullet Train from Tokyo, the first site we visited, Kinkaku-ji, is quite extraordinary. In 1397, the shogun Yoshimitsu decided that he wanted to construct a monument to his own opulence, and so built (or rather, had built) a magnificent three-storey villa, painted gold. The glory of this Golden Pavilion, reflected in the 'Pond of Mirrors', is something else altogether. 

It is not difficult to imagine the serenity that Yoshimitsu would have felt strolling around these gardens on a summer's morning, or that of the monks who took up residence here after his death, but unfortunately these days it is shattered somewhat by the swarms of tourists that pack into this place. I'm conflicted between a frustration that the original peace of here, and elsewhere in Kyoto, has been destroyed by the chattering hordes, and an uncomfortable awareness that I too am one of them - I would not be here, would not be seeing it at all, were it not for the tourist industry. Part of the problem, I suppose, is that what I actually want to do is visit the past, and as far as I'm aware that's not possible. No matter. I can make do with this.

We then made our way to the many Zen Buddhist temples at Daitoku-ji, and happily these were substantially less crowded, probably because we arrived quite late in the day. As with most places in Japan, you have to remove your shoes to go inside the temples (I think this should be the rule everywhere, it seems very sensible, although perhaps the fact I'm known as 'Shoes-Off Bayfield' may have something to do with that). 

The Zen gardens were very interesting. I especially liked one metaphor: the transience of man's life in the great span of eternity is represented by a tree whose flowers linger only one day after blossoming before falling to the ground. Pretty deep. Also, there was a revealing quote on one wall - 'don't take the monastic for granted, for underneath the robes may be a badger in sheepskin'. I don't think you'd catch many religious leaders in the West saying that.

There's a great deal to admire in Zen Buddhism as a philosophy, and the temples remain appealingly tranquil refuges from the hectic world of modern Japan, even if there are gift shops at most of them. It is, however, somewhat difficult to reconcile this ideology, especially its popularity amongst the warrior class, with Japan's heavily militarised past.

Kyoto is a phenomenal place. There is so much more to see.

- Adam